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Pearl Grading Guide
Pearl Quality
Pearl Grading Guide
Pearls are organic gems — no two are identical. Understanding how they are assessed helps you choose with confidence and appreciate what makes each piece unique. This guide explains the four quality factors MXW uses to grade every pearl in our range.
A note on grading: There is no single universal international standard for pearl grading. The letter grades used across the industry — A, AA, AAA, AAAA — are defined by each seller based on their own sourcing range and quality criteria. The grades on this page reflect MXW's own quality standards, defined clearly so you know exactly what you're buying.
Four Factors That Define Pearl Quality
Every pearl MXW uses is assessed individually across four key factors. No single factor tells the whole story — a pearl's true quality is the sum of all four. On each product page, you'll find each factor graded separately so you can understand exactly what you're getting.
Natural surface marks and slight shape variations are part of what makes a pearl a genuine organic gem. We do not describe any of our pearls as "flawless" — that word does not apply to natural pearls.
Lustre
Most Important FactorLustre is the depth and brightness of a pearl's natural glow — how light reflects from both its surface and from within. It is the single most important quality indicator. A pearl with exceptional lustre will show a sharp, mirror-like reflection. A pearl with poor lustre appears chalky or dull. To check lustre, hold the pearl under a light source and look for the sharpness of your reflection.
| Grade | Lustre Quality | What You See |
|---|---|---|
|
AAAA
|
Very High | Mirror-like, deep luminous glow. Sharp, crisp reflections clearly visible. Intense pearlescent sheen with rich overtones. |
|
AAA
|
High | Bright, strong reflections easily visible. Warm glow with good depth. Slight softness compared to AAAA on very close inspection. |
|
AA
|
Medium | Warm glow visible to the naked eye. Reflections present but softer, with some haze noticeable on close inspection. |
|
A
|
Poor | Soft, chalky appearance with low reflectivity. Limited depth of glow. Not stocked by MXW. |
MXW does not stock A grade lustre pearls. All pieces in our range begin at AA lustre as a minimum standard.
Surface
Natural Variation ExpectedSurface quality measures how clean the pearl is — the percentage of the surface that is free from natural blemishes such as small pits, ridges, spots, or slight texture variations. Because pearls are organic, some surface characteristics are always present — even in the finest pearls. Surface marks give a pearl natural character and are not a sign of poor quality. What matters is their size, visibility, and location.
| Grade | Surface Clean | What You See |
|---|---|---|
|
AAAA
|
95–99% clean | Virtually flawless to the naked eye. Any minor natural variations are very small, colourless, and only visible under close inspection. |
|
AAA
|
90–94% clean | Mostly eye-clean at normal viewing distance. Some minor natural blemishes may be visible on very close inspection — not noticeable when worn. |
|
AA
|
75–89% clean | Natural surface variations visible on close inspection. Minor blemishes, ridges, or small spots present — typical of genuine cultured pearls and part of their organic character. |
|
A
|
Less than 75% clean | Blemishes visible to the naked eye. Heavy surface variation. Not stocked by MXW. |
Natural pearls will never be perfectly flawless — that would indicate a synthetic or treated pearl. Surface characteristics are part of what proves a pearl is genuine and organic. We never describe our pearls as flawless.
Shape
No Letter GradePearl shape is described directly — not graded with a letter. Perfectly round pearls are the rarest and most traditionally prized, but shape is ultimately a matter of personal preference. Baroque pearls, for example, are highly sought for their organic, sculptural character — no two are ever the same. Shape does not indicate a pearl is inferior — it indicates what kind of beauty it has.
Pearl shape is not graded with a letter — it is described directly on each product page. Shape is a matter of personal preference, not a quality indicator. A baroque pearl is not inferior to a round pearl — it simply has a different kind of beauty.
Pearls grow in a remarkable variety of natural shapes. Perfectly round pearls are the rarest — less than 1% of all cultured pearls are truly spherical. The most common shapes you'll find in our range include round, near-round, button, oval, rice, baroque, keshi, coin, rectangular, cross, heart, and flower, among others.
Freshwater pearls in particular grow in the widest variety of shapes of any pearl type — this is part of what makes them so versatile and interesting to design with. The exact shape of each piece is always stated on the product page.
Size
Measured in MillimetresPearl size is measured in millimetres (mm) and stated directly on each product page. Larger pearls take longer to grow and are rarer, making size a significant factor in value — particularly for South Sea and Akoya varieties. Size is not graded with a letter — it is simply measured and stated.
Freshwater Pearls
2–10mm
Our freshwater pearl range spans from delicate 2–3mm seed pearls used as accent beads, through to 8–10mm statement pearls selected for centrepiece pieces.
Akoya Pearls
6–9mm
Akoya pearls are naturally smaller saltwater pearls, typically 6–9mm. Their value comes primarily from exceptional roundness and lustre, not size.
South Sea Baroque
10–15mm+
South Sea pearls are among the largest cultured pearls in the world. Our baroque South Sea pieces feature pearls typically 10mm and above.
Pearl size on product pages refers to the diameter of individual pearls, measured at their widest point. For baroque pearls, the size range reflects natural variation across the piece.
Have a question about pearl quality or want to understand the grades on a specific product? Reach out at info@mxwjewellery.com — we're happy to help you choose.
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