If you've ever wondered whether freshwater pearls are "lesser" pearls, the short answer is no — they're simply grown differently. Here's what actually separates the two, and how to judge pearl quality no matter which you choose.

The comparison at a glance

Are freshwater pearls real pearls?

Yes — completely. A pearl is real if it was formed by a living mollusc coating an irritant with nacre, layer by layer, over months or years. Freshwater pearls meet that definition exactly; they're grown in mussels rather than oysters, but the nacre — the iridescent material that gives every pearl its glow — is the same substance.

The confusion comes from the word "cultured". Nearly all pearls sold today, freshwater and saltwater alike, are cultured — meaning a farmer starts the process by placing a small piece of tissue (or a bead) inside the mollusc, and nature does the rest. Cultured is the opposite of imitation, not the opposite of real. The genuinely rare category is natural pearls, formed with no human help, which today are essentially auction-house territory.

What sets saltwater pearls apart

Saltwater pearls — Akoya from Japan and China, South Sea from Australia and the Philippines, Tahitian from French Polynesia — grow one or two at a time inside oysters, seeded around a round shell bead. That bead is why they come out so consistently spherical, and cooler ocean waters produce the tight nacre layers behind the famous mirror-sharp Akoya lustre.

They're stunning — and priced accordingly. One oyster yielding one or two pearls, longer farming cycles, and higher mortality make saltwater pearls several times the price of freshwater equivalents. A classic Akoya strand runs into the thousands; South Sea and Tahitian pieces go far beyond.

If you're building an heirloom collection, saltwater earns its price. If you want real pearls you can actually wear weekly — layered, gifted, worn to work — freshwater is the smarter buy, which is why we build our pearl designs with quality freshwater pearls.

How to judge pearl quality (either type)

1. Lustre first. The single biggest quality factor. Look for a bright, well-defined reflection on the pearl's surface — sharp light sources should be visible in it. Chalky, dull pearls are low grade regardless of size.
2. Surface. Minor natural blemishes are normal (and proof it grew in a living creature); the fewer and smaller, the better.
3. Shape. Perfectly round commands the highest price, but that's rarity, not beauty — near-round, oval, and baroque pearls are deliberate style choices, and baroque shapes are having a genuine moment.
4. Matching. In strands and earrings, look for pearls consistent in tone, size, and lustre.
5. Colour. A personal choice, not a grade — white and cream are classic, while pink, lavender and peach freshwater tones feel more contemporary.

How to tell real pearls from fake

Imitation "pearls" — glass, plastic, or coated beads — are the actual thing to avoid. Three quick checks:

• The tooth test. Rub a pearl gently against the edge of your front tooth. Real pearls feel slightly gritty (those are the microscopic nacre layers); imitations feel glassy-smooth.
• Look for imperfection. Real pearls in a strand vary subtly in size, shape, and surface. A row of flawless, identical spheres is almost always imitation.
• Feel the weight and temperature. Real pearls feel cool at first touch and warm up on the skin; plastic imitations feel warm and light immediately.

Caring for pearls

Pearls are organic — softer than metal or gemstones — so they have their own rules: always the last thing on and the first thing off, kept away from perfume and hairspray, removed before showering, swimming, and exercising, and wiped with a soft cloth after wear. Store them separately from harder jewellery so nothing scratches the nacre. For the full routine, see our Jewellery Care guide.

Frequently asked questions